Glædelig Jul

My first Danish Christmas was one for the story books. In fact, it felt like a holiday fairytale read as a little girl or an old movie seen during the holidays in black and white. All the traditions, customs, and rituals of the Danish folk seem to be caught somewhere back in time for this American expat. It holds a special place in Danish hearts and has definitely made an impression on mine.

We began with mass on Christmas Eve that was held in a church built in the 1200's. It was humbling sitting in a church with such history. I couldn't stop staring at all the paintings, pictures, and artifacts and wondering whether someone else was sitting in my same spot 700 years ago.

Then it was time for Christmas dinner with duck, brown potatoes, white potatoes with brown sauce, french potatoes and red cabbage with fruit. This meal is what every Dane across Denmark is having at approximately the same time. The closest thing I can compare the ritual to is the Thanksgiving feast in the US. Several hours later came the dessert, Risalamande, which was of course my favorite.

Next up, lighting the Christmas tree candles, putting presents under the tree, and dancing and singing around the tree and throughout the house in preparation for the gifts you are about to receive. I didn't know the words, but it didn't matter. I hummed along and got lost in the moment. There was something so cozy about the ritual that you couldn't help but laugh and smile and feel grateful.

Gratitude might be something we talk about at Thanksgiving in America, but in Denmark at Christmastime it is an unspoken feeling.

Give Peace a Chance

On December 10th the President of the United States accepted the 2009 Nobel Peace Prize for his extraordinary efforts to strengthen international diplomacy and cooperation between peoples. This award has been subject of major debate and criticism in the US but for the most part has been regarded positively in Europe. People love Obama on this side of the pond (as seen by random graffiti on Copenhagen train tracks above). I find this disconnect rather interesting.

What does that say about us as Americans when other cultures can see the influence and potential our President has for our future as a global community? We seem to be a nation divided between which side we are on, internally. What we fail to see is that this award, and our President represents an idea, or possibility. That we have the ability to hope and inspire for more. Better relations between nations. A more peaceful coexistence.

The fact that as an American I am no longer afraid to travel internationally and feel safe announcing I am from the US brings me a huge sigh of relief. As an American citizen now living abroad, this is particularly important. Seeing the US from a different perspective (not being swallowed up inside it) has been a rather eye opening experience and one that I hope to take with me throughout the years no matter where I live.

Hopenhagen

It's been longer than I had hoped since my last post and that is one part vacation and two parts school and work. Over the past month my Danish has expanded, I have visited with my family and friends back in the States, and we have come home to a newly branded Copenhagen because of the UN Climate Conference being held here in December. Hopenhagen.

For me that one word means so many things. A hope for a better tomorrow. Hope for employment, not just for me but for everyone looking. Hope that the environment finally receives the global awareness it deserves. Hope that Copenhagen becomes the home I know it can be for me.

Come Jan 1 I hope I am able to adapt to my new schedule and routine with open arms and let the busy body inside me relax and relish this time to recharge my batteries. Maybe go back to school to get my Masters, really delve into my Danish studies, and take the time to find a new career, not just a job.

Most of all, I hope I have patience. Afterall, mother nature has been patiently waiting for us to wake up for years. I can give it a few more months!

Taler du dansk?

One week, 15 hours, and 5 homework hours into Danish lessons makes me 5 months and 20 days closer to speaking fluently to my father in law one day. That's the running joke in the family anyway. That in 6 months I'll be fluent in Danish. It's part sarcasm based on the fact that Danish is one of the hardest languages you can possibly learn, and part hope that I will finally be able to speak to my Danish family sooner rather than later.

My class has 17 members from various parts of the world. There are 3 Americans, 2 Chinese, 2 Lithuanians, 1 Parisian, 1 Hungarian, 1 Brazilian, 1 Mexican, 1 Canadian, 1 Russian, 1 Indian, 1 Senegalan, 1 Dominican Republican, and 1 Polak (or Pole) if you'd rather have the English translation. We're as various as our countries, but the one thing that we all have in common is that we found ourselves in Denmark for one reason or another and want (or have to) learn to speak the language while living here.

In one week I am pretty amazed at how much we have learned. We can introduce ourselves, say where we come from, tell how many languages we speak, and return the questions to one another. We can also count to one hundred and tell time. Lastly, we have begun to learn how to formulate sentences and conjugate verbs and nouns. Our vocabulary is limited (we still haven't learned the days of the week or months or seasons like language class in college would begin) but we are able to get through everyday situations and courtesies which is the whole point.

Living in Denmark is not just about being with the one I love. It's about loving the life I live. I can only do that by integrating myself fully and embracing the language wholeheartedly along with its people and customs. It also means swallowing my pride even though sticking my tongue out of the mouth when talking just doesn't feel right.

Dusk at Dawn

As I read all the gloriously happy Facebook posts from friends out enjoying the beautiful Fall weather back in the States, I am beginning to realize the biggest difference between the Midwest and Western Europe. The lack of sun. There are no golden leaves glistening on the trees here.

I knew this going in, and also experienced it when traveling, but living with it is quite different. You literally wake up to the same amount of light that you will have all day. It feels like dusk at dawn, and never really gets any lighter than that. It is constantly overcast and frequently rains. Even sitting by a window, you will want to turn on lights in the afternoon.

I am beginning to understand why normal working hours are shorter in Denmark. People start to commute home around 4pm, maybe even 3pm (or should I say 16:00 or 15:00). What I thought was pretty fantastic during the summer months, I now see as a necessity in the middle of Fall.

It gives people a chance to enjoy some of the day before it turns pitch black. Maybe even hit one of the self service sun booths that are everywhere in the city to boost the mood. What they lack in natural light, they make up for in artificial access. Sun beds are even at the gym. I am learning a little more everyday just what makes them so happy. Good infrastructure.

Men in Tights

Copenhagen is a city of fitness. It is apparent everywhere. From the thousands of bicyclists riding right along with traffic to the hundreds of parents pushing their babies in buggies on the sidewalks. However, the one activity that sticks out above the rest for me is running.

Not because it is the most frequent, but because it has the most noticeable outfit. The running suit. As an avid runner myself I pay special attention to fellow runners and I'm used to seeing them in all shapes and sizes and outfits. Not the case in Denmark.

For one, most runners are typically one size. Thin and athletic. Two, they all suit up in matching jacket and pants, or running tights. Yes, I said tights. Spandex looking, muscle hugging, shiny material dons the legs of Dames and Dudes!

Just the other day I saw two men warming up together at a stoplight jogging in place waiting for the light to turn green and I couldn't stop staring and smiling as the next blog immediately popped into my head. Men in tights. You don't have to go to the ballet to see them in action in Copenhagen!

Hot Dog in the City

One of the first things I noticed on the streets of Copenhagen was the fact that hot dog stands are everywhere. Strange looking, skinny red, long narrow curved pieces of meat grace the front, back, and sides of hot dog stands and seem to be the universal sign for food on buses.

These aren't the mystery meat dogs you find in American grocery stores either. They are 100% pork and you can have them almost anyway you want them. Two common ways are the Danish way, with fried onions, raw onions, pickels, sweet ketchup, and remoulade or the French way with your choice of sauce squeezed into an enclosed "hot dog in a blanket" bun.

It is the American sandwich version of lunch on the run or the Danish version of fast food drive throughs. At first I was skeptical, and couldn't help but poke fun, but then I had one. Complete with my can of Carlsberg from 7 Eleven it was "Probably one of the best ways to start the weekend."