Monday, November 16, 2009

Taler du dansk?

One week, 15 hours, and 5 homework hours into Danish lessons makes me 5 months and 20 days closer to speaking fluently to my father in law one day. That's the running joke in the family anyway. That in 6 months I'll be fluent in Danish. It's part sarcasm based on the fact that Danish is one of the hardest languages you can possibly learn, and part hope that I will finally be able to speak to my Danish family sooner rather than later.

My class has 17 members from various parts of the world. There are 3 Americans, 2 Chinese, 2 Lithuanians, 1 Parisian, 1 Hungarian, 1 Brazilian, 1 Mexican, 1 Canadian, 1 Russian, 1 Indian, 1 Senegalan, 1 Dominican Republican, and 1 Polak (or Pole) if you'd rather have the English translation. We're as various as our countries, but the one thing that we all have in common is that we found ourselves in Denmark for one reason or another and want (or have to) learn to speak the language while living here.

In one week I am pretty amazed at how much we have learned. We can introduce ourselves, say where we come from, tell how many languages we speak, and return the questions to one another. We can also count to one hundred and tell time. Lastly, we have begun to learn how to formulate sentences and conjugate verbs and nouns. Our vocabulary is limited (we still haven't learned the days of the week or months or seasons like language class in college would begin) but we are able to get through everyday situations and courtesies which is the whole point.

Living in Denmark is not just about being with the one I love. It's about loving the life I live. I can only do that by integrating myself fully and embracing the language wholeheartedly along with its people and customs. It also means swallowing my pride even though sticking my tongue out of the mouth when talking just doesn't feel right.

Thursday, October 29, 2009

Dusk at Dawn

As I read all the gloriously happy Facebook posts from friends out enjoying the beautiful Fall weather back in the States, I am beginning to realize the biggest difference between the Midwest and Western Europe. The lack of sun. There are no golden leaves glistening on the trees here.

I knew this going in, and also experienced it when traveling, but living with it is quite different. You literally wake up to the same amount of light that you will have all day. It feels like dusk at dawn, and never really gets any lighter than that. It is constantly overcast and frequently rains. Even sitting by a window, you will want to turn on lights in the afternoon.

I am beginning to understand why normal working hours are shorter in Denmark. People start to commute home around 4pm, maybe even 3pm (or should I say 16:00 or 15:00). What I thought was pretty fantastic during the summer months, I now see as a necessity in the middle of Fall.

It gives people a chance to enjoy some of the day before it turns pitch black. Maybe even hit one of the self service sun booths that are everywhere in the city to boost the mood. What they lack in natural light, they make up for in artificial access. Sun beds are even at the gym. I am learning a little more everyday just what makes them so happy. Good infrastructure.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Men in Tights

Copenhagen is a city of fitness. It is apparent everywhere. From the thousands of bicyclists riding right along with traffic to the hundreds of parents pushing their babies in buggies on the sidewalks. However, the one activity that sticks out above the rest for me is running.

Not because it is the most frequent, but because it has the most noticeable outfit. The running suit. As an avid runner myself I pay special attention to fellow runners and I'm used to seeing them in all shapes and sizes and outfits. Not the case in Denmark.

For one, most runners are typically one size. Thin and athletic. Two, they all suit up in matching jacket and pants, or running tights. Yes, I said tights. Spandex looking, muscle hugging, shiny material dons the legs of Dames and Dudes!

Just the other day I saw two men warming up together at a stoplight jogging in place waiting for the light to turn green and I couldn't stop staring and smiling as the next blog immediately popped into my head. Men in tights. You don't have to go to the ballet to see them in action in Copenhagen!

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Hot Dog in the City

One of the first things I noticed on the streets of Copenhagen was the fact that hot dog stands are everywhere. Strange looking, skinny red, long narrow curved pieces of meat grace the front, back, and sides of hot dog stands and seem to be the universal sign for food on buses.

These aren't the mystery meat dogs you find in American grocery stores either. They are 100% pork and you can have them almost anyway you want them. Two common ways are the Danish way, with fried onions, raw onions, pickels, sweet ketchup, and remoulade or the French way with your choice of sauce squeezed into an enclosed "hot dog in a blanket" bun.

It is the American sandwich version of lunch on the run or the Danish version of fast food drive throughs. At first I was skeptical, and couldn't help but poke fun, but then I had one. Complete with my can of Carlsberg from 7 Eleven it was "Probably one of the best ways to start the weekend."

Friday, October 2, 2009

My Kind of Town

Chicago, Oprah, and the Obama's have been all over the news this week in Copenhagen during the 121st IOC Session for the 2016 Olympics. It has been a fantastic experience as an American and former Chicagoan to witness the excitement of the Danes because of their presence in the country's capital. I have never felt more proud of where I come from, or missed home more.

The hype started when The First Lady landed on Wednesday to support the Chicago bid for 2016 host city, alongside Mayor Daley. It continued when Oprah was seen in the streets and in Danish homes filming a show about why the Danes are "The Happiest People on Earth." Her primary objective was to be here to support the bid, but leave it to "the talk show queen" as she has been called in Demark, to make a show out of it as well.

The tipping point for all the hype happened this morning when Danish TV cameras were aimed at the sky from 6am on waiting for President Obama's arrival. He landed on Danish soil nearly two hours later and the cameras and the rest of Denmark witnessed his every move during his short, but influential five hour visit. It was an amazing spectacle to experience. Denmark loves him too!

While Barack kept the media busy, Michelle stole the show during the 50 minute presentation on Chicago. She tugged on the heart strings of everyone watching by mentioning how the Olympic games would be held not far from where she grew up and how her father would be so proud to see what his city has become. Her grace and conviction was so overwhelming that when The President took the podium it took a minute to focus on the man of the hour. Obama told us how he moved around a lot as a boy but chose to plant roots in Chicago. He believes the city of big shoulders has the strength and diversity to bring people together and make the world proud.

In the end it was South America's turn to dazzle the world with the Olympics in Rio de Janeiro. A day later and an IOC Olympic bid short, Obama and Chicago are still in the Danish news. Whether it's because those words jump out at me as an American or whether they are the only words I understand is hard to tell. One thing is for certain. Chicago was the crowd favorite in Copenhagen.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Becoming Dane

Not quite as romantic as a Jane Austin novel, but equally enlightening is the experience of becoming a Danish resident. There is tons of bad press associated with the immigration process no matter where you live and the same applies in Denmark, so I was eager to experience it first hand. After the wedding on June 20, we wasted little time. Family left the following Wednesday and we were in the immigration office by Friday. I applied on June 26th and received notice of my residency on September 4th. A two month wait, one of which included us being out of the country, is not too bad compared to the stories we have been told. Six months being the shortest wait in the US.

After the celebratory residency letter was received it was time to get the corresponding sticker including picture in my passport that acknowledges me as a resident of Denmark. Ten minutes after arriving at the immigration office, I was waiting for my information to be processed, and 20 minutes later my passport was back in hand to total 30 minutes to make my documentation official. Next I needed to receive my CPR (central person registry) number, or the Danish version of the Social Security Number. This is the key to the country. With this number I am able to open a bank account, use the health care system, and be treated just like any other Danish citizen. We ended up being the only people in the office needing assistance on that particular day. We forgot our marriage license, but luckily had a very nice Dane who was able to process my application anyway. Less than an hour later I had my number, a doctor picked out, and we were on our way home.

Finally, came my integration meeting with the city to schedule my Danish classes and sign a contract that helps me reach the goal of becoming a permanent resident of Denmark one day. During this very enlightening hour and a half I discovered I had the same rights and benefits as every other Danish citizen, including getting my Masters for free AND getting paid by the government while in school. I could feel Tobias' pride in his country during that moment and felt very grateful to be able to have this opportunity. Going back to school has been something I have been wanting to do for many years, but never thought I'd have the chance because it was simply unaffordable in the US. Or rather, after years of working myself out of it, I didn't want to go back into college debt again.

So overall, the process of becoming a Dane took me two months and three hours. I'm not sure whether it's because I'm an American, or that I look Danish, but the immigration process in Denmark was pretty painless. I dare to say, an unexpected pleasant experience. Now if only learning the language could be that simple!

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

I See Bicycles

Denmark is a country structured with some basic principles that are visible in everything they do. Health, environmental consciousness and fitness. I've already addressed health by describing the food experience in my last couple of blogs. Fruit is everywhere, and fresh food is often more affordable than packaged goods. All a part of their master plan to avoid obesity in their beautiful country. When I mention beautiful, I'm not just talking about the landscape.

Environmental consciousness is visible in grocery stores where it is expected of the consumer to bring their own bag for groceries. We are just beginning to embrace this habit in the US, but one thing that I'm not sure will ever fly is the fact that you have to pay for plastic bags in stores if you forget to bring your own bag. I will never forget my first Scandinavian grocery store shopping experience when I stood looking at all the items I just bought on the conveyor belt totally confused why the person behind the counter moved onto the next customer without blinking an eye. Quite opposite from the US where they are eager to double and sometimes triple bag your groceries for you.

However, the biggest environmental conscious piece of infrastructure they have put into place is a direct result of the green tax put on cars. All to encourage what no doubt has a dual purpose, bicycling as a popular means of transportation, and to keep their people fit. Bicycle paths have been built into the highway system, alongside the car lanes, and before the sidewalk begins. Often elevated or protected by a curb, making a cycler feel safe, encouraging their right of way. Which is the case in Denmark. Bicyclists have the right of way here, not pedestrians.

It takes some time, but you learn to look for bikers before you step out onto the sidewalk, cross the street, step off the bus, pretty much do anything outside. At first I was annoyed, but now I am just amazed. I have seen men in full suits riding their bikes to work with baby seats on the back, ladies in dresses and skirts (with leggings and scarves of course) balancing their laptops on their backs, and a cell phone in their hands, while maneuvering their way through traffic lights and fellow bikers.
Come wind or rain or shine they are visible in the thousands day after day regardless of the elements. Whether their bikes are lined up alongside buildings, bus stops, train stations, or sidewalks. It doesn't matter. Here there are even parking garages for bikes like there are for cars!! It never ceases to amaze me and keeps street life interesting.

This is the city I live in. Food is fresh, health is encouraged, and they are leading in environmental consciousness. Not a bad rest stop along the bike path of life.